Japanese Silk Fabric

There is increasing number of people who incorporate Japanese style ‘Wa’ into their life-styles. We hope that more people would also incorporate the Japanese silk material ‘Kire’ into their life-styles.

If you are interested in these Japanese fabrics, please contact us.

 

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About ‘Kireji’ (Japanese Silk Fabric)

The Japanese silk fabric ‘Kireji’ used for picture mounts ‘Hyousou’ were originally made of Japanese court dresses. However, since the Meiji Era they have been newly woven to make the Japanese silk fabric ‘Hyousou Kireji’.

About the Kanji kanji1

In Japanese, different Kanji characters are often pronounced the same, but have different meanings.If you look up ‘Kire’ in the dictionary, it is written as kanji2, which nicely expresses the way in which the fabric is cut to make picture mounts (not the Kanji kanji1 for rip). However, it is generally more common to use the Kanji kanji1(rip) to relate to the fabrics used in picture mounts.

Composition of fabrics

Fabrics are made by crossing over the vertical and horizontal strings using a loom. The three types of fabric, ‘Kinran’, ‘Donsu’ and ‘Muji’ are different in the ways these strings cross over. There are three principle patterns in these fabrics; ‘Hira-ori’ is the one which the vertical and horizontal strings cross over every other line, ‘Aya-ori’ is where more than three of the vertical and horizontal strings cross over each other, and ‘Byoushi-ori’ is where there is little cross over between the vertical and horizontal strings, and the minimum unit is at least five of each strings.

About ‘Meibutu-Gire’ (The Specialty Fabric)

名物裂間道宝尽し遠州

Meibutsu-Gire Kanto Takara-dukushi Enshu
名物裂間道宝尽し遠州

The ‘Specialty Fabric’ (Meibutu-Gire) is originally from China, which is used to wrap specialty tea caddies ‘Chaire’ at tea ceremonies. The three types of ‘Kireji’ fabrics; ‘Kinran’, ‘Ginran’ and ‘Donsu’, were imported from China in the Muromachi Era, of the Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and Yoshimasa Period (14th Century). These fabrics were owned by tea ceremony performers, high priests, upper-class samurais and various other collectors. The best fabrics amongst them were coupled with tea ceremonies and later became the so-called eSpecialty Fabricf. These fabrics are principally named after shrines and temples, famous priests, feudal lords and tea ceremony performers or from scenes of ‘Noh’ performance where the fabrics were used for costumes. For example, the ‘Kinran’ fabric called ‘Futari-Shizuka’ is thought to be named after the dance performance given by the General Ashikaga Yoshimasa.

 

Kinran (Gold Brocade)

In Japan, we call the materials that have gold thread patterns on Aya-ori or Byoushi-ori base fabrics ‘Kinran’. We also have ‘Ginran’, which has silver thread woven into it, fabric decorated with gold leaf ‘Inkin’, and ‘Kinsha’ with silk interwoven with gilt thread.
We can find a phrase in the Exodus of the Old Testament, ‘Spread gold to make thread, and weave that together with purple or hemp threads.’ Therefore, we can guess that the use of ‘Kinsha’ dates back to over 2000 years ago in Western Asia where gilt threads were twisted into fabrics. Later years, ‘Hakushi’ was developed in China, which is made by sticking gold on paper and placing it on fabrics.
For picture mounts, ‘Kinran’ is a high-end fabric and the appropriate material is chosen according to the content and the purpose of the picture.

錆朱蜀江文金襴
Sabishu Shokkou-mon Kinran
錆朱蜀江文金襴
Ground color: Burnt sienna
Pattern: Shokkou-mon
Leaf: Gold
薄茶地花兎文金襴
Usucha-ji Hana-Usagi-mon Kinran
薄茶地花兎文金襴
Ground color: Light brown 
Pattern: Flower and Rabbit
Leaf: Gold
薄茶地線上がり牡丹文銀襴
Usucha-ji Sen-agari Botan-mon Ginran
薄茶地線上がり牡丹文銀襴
Ground color: Light brown
Pattern: Peony
Leaf: Silver
薄納戸紬地一重蔓牡丹文銀襴
Usunando Tsumugi-ji Hitoe-Tsuru-Botan-mon Ginran
薄納戸紬地一重蔓牡丹文銀襴
Ground color: Light greyish blue
Pattern: Vine and Peony
Leaf: Silver
薄茶色小菱地牡丹唐草文_漆箔
Usuchairo Kobishi-ji Botan-Karakusa-mon Urushi-haku
薄茶色小菱地牡丹唐草文 漆箔
Ground color: Light brown
Pattern: Diamond, Peonny and Arabesque
Leaf: Urushi (Japanese lacquer)
錆朱安楽牡丹文漆箔
Sabishu Anraku-Botan-mon Urushi-haku
錆朱安楽牡丹文 漆箔
Groun color: Burnt sienna
Pattern: Peony
Leaf: Urushi (Japanese lacquer)
納戸色印金風牡丹金襴
Nandoiro Inkin-fu Botan Kinran
納戸色印金風牡丹金襴 Ground color: Greyish blue
Pattern: Peony
Leaf: Gold
薄茶葡萄折枝飛柄文_漆箔
Usucha Budo-Orieda-Tobigara-mon Urushi-haku
薄茶葡萄折枝飛柄文 漆箔
Ground color: Light brown 
Pattern: Grape 
Leaf: Urushi (Japanese lacquer)
錆朱蜀江文金襴
Sabishu Shokkou-mon Kinran
錆朱蜀江文金襴
Ground color: Burnt sienna
Pattern: Shokkou-mon
Leaf: Gold
薄茶地花兎文金襴
Usucha-ji Hana-Usagi-mon Kinran
薄茶地花兎文金襴
Ground color: Light brown 
Pattern: Flower and Rabbit
Leaf: Gold
薄茶地線上がり牡丹文銀襴
Usucha-ji Sen-agari Botan-mon Ginran
薄茶地線上がり牡丹文銀襴
Ground color: Light brown
Pattern: Peony
Leaf: Silver
薄納戸紬地一重蔓牡丹文銀襴
Usunando Tsumugi-ji Hitoe-Tsuru-Botan-mon Ginran
薄納戸紬地一重蔓牡丹文銀襴
Ground color: Light greyish blue
Pattern: Vine and Peony
Leaf: Silver
薄茶色小菱地牡丹唐草文_漆箔
Usuchairo Kobishi-ji Botan-Karakusa-mon Urushi-haku
薄茶色小菱地牡丹唐草文 漆箔
Ground color: Light brown
Pattern: Diamond, Peonny and Arabesque
Leaf: Urushi (Japanese lacquer)
錆朱安楽牡丹文漆箔
Sabishu Anraku-Botan-mon Urushi-haku
錆朱安楽牡丹文 漆箔
Groun color: Burnt sienna
Pattern: Peony
Leaf: Urushi (Japanese lacquer)
納戸色印金風牡丹金襴
Nandoiro Inkin-fu Botan Kinran
納戸色印金風牡丹金襴 Ground color: Greyish blue
Pattern: Peony
Leaf: Gold
薄茶葡萄折枝飛柄文_漆箔
Usucha Budo-Orieda-Tobigara-mon Urushi-haku
薄茶葡萄折枝飛柄文 漆箔
Ground color: Light brown
Pattern: Grape
Leaf: Urushi (Japanese lacquer)

 

Donsu (Damask)

This is a type of ‘Byoushi-ori’ and it is a thin fabric that has a beautiful shine to it. The patterns are clear, since the thread that makes these patterns are woven with a different composition from the base thread. It has a unique texture and an unobtrusive pattern, which makes it an important fabric for picture mounts.

白地小花文緞子
Shiro-ji Kobana-mon Donsu
白地小花文緞子
Ground color: White
Pattern: Flower
納戸色菱地飛花文
Nandoiro Hishi-ji Tobihana-mon
納戸色菱地飛花文
Ground color: Greyish blue
Pattern: Diamond and Flower
紋海気
Mon Kaiki
紋海気
Ground color: Brown
Pattern: Peony and Arabesque
白地円寿蝙蝠文緞子
Shiro-ji Enju Koumori-mon Donsu
白地円寿蝙蝠文緞子
Ground color: White
Pattern: Word(寿=Kotobuki) and Bat
朱珍華文遠州
Shuchin Hana-mon Enshu
朱珍華文遠州
Ground color: Light brown 
Pattern: Flower
金茶蜀江文緞子
Kincha Shokkou-mon Donsu
金茶蜀江文緞子
Groun color: Golden brown
Pattern: Shokkou-mon
鉄色有楽文緞子
Tetsuiro Uraku-mon Donsu
鉄色有楽文緞子
Ground color: Steel grey 
Pattern: Net, Cloud and Tsuru (Crane)
萌黄色松亀甲文遠州
Moegiiro Matsu-Kikkou-mon Enshu 
萌黄色松亀甲文遠州
Ground color: Yellowish-green 
Pattern: Matsu (Pine) in Hexagonal pattern
名物裂間道宝尽し遠州
Meibutsu-Gire Kanto Takara-dukushi Enshu 
名物裂間道宝尽し遠州
Pattern: Stripe and Japanese treasures
焦茶卍菱地小花文緞子
Kogecha Manji Hishi-ji Kobana-mon Donsu 
焦茶卍菱地小花文緞子
Ground color: Dark brown 
Pattern: Word (卍=Manji),  Dianmon and Flower
海老茶色小内桐遠州
Ebichairo Ouchi-Kiri Enshu 
海老茶色小内桐遠州
Ground color: Reddish brown 
Pattern: Kiri (Empress tree)
三色間道宝尽くし遠州
Sanshoku Kanto Takara-dukushi Enshu
三色間道宝尽くし遠州
  Pattern: Stripe and Japanese treasure
蜀江文遠州
Shokkou-mon Enshu
蜀江文遠州
Pattern: Shokkou-mon
 
     
白地小花文緞子
Shiro-ji Kobana-mon Donsu
白地小花文緞子
Ground color: White
Pattern: Flower
納戸色菱地飛花文
Nandoiro Hishi-ji Tobihana-mon
納戸色菱地飛花文
Ground color: Greyish blue
Pattern: Diamond and Flower
紋海気
Mon Kaiki
紋海気
Ground color: Brown
Pattern: Peony and Arabesque
白地円寿蝙蝠文緞子
Shiro-ji Enju Koumori-mon Donsu
白地円寿蝙蝠文緞子
Ground color: White
Pattern: Word(寿=Kotobuki) and Bat
朱珍華文遠州
Shuchin Hana-mon Enshu
朱珍華文遠州
Ground color: Light brown 
Pattern: Flower
金茶蜀江文緞子
Kincha Shokkou-mon Donsu
金茶蜀江文緞子
Groun color: Golden brown
Pattern: Shokkou-mon
鉄色有楽文緞子
Tetsuiro Uraku-mon Donsu
鉄色有楽文緞子
Ground color: Steel grey 
Pattern: Net, Cloud and Tsuru (Crane)
萌黄色松亀甲文遠州
Moegiiro matsu-kikkou-mon enshu 
萌黄色松亀甲文遠州
Ground color: Yellowish-green 
Pattern: Matsu (Pine) in Hexagonal pattern
名物裂間道宝尽し遠州
Meibutsu-Gire Kanto Takara-dukushi Enshu 
名物裂間道宝尽し遠州
Pattern: Stripe and Japanese treasures
焦茶卍菱地小花文緞子
Kogecha Manji Hishi-ji Kobana-mon Donsu 
焦茶卍菱地小花文緞子
Ground color: Dark brown 
Pattern: Word (卍=Manji),  Dianmon and Flower
海老茶色小内桐遠州
Ebichairo Ouchi-Kiri Enshu 
海老茶色小内桐遠州
Ground color: Reddish brown 
Pattern: Kiri (Empress tree)
三色間道宝尽くし遠州
Sanshoku Kanto Takara-dukushi Enshu
三色間道宝尽くし遠州
  Pattern: Stripe and Japanese treasure
蜀江文遠州
Shokkou-mon Enshu
蜀江文遠州
Pattern: Shokkou-mon

If you are interested in these Japanese fabrics, please contact us.